32+ Designs how to grade a sewing pattern up

Its rare that any of us are one straight size in a sewing pattern. For this grade well be increasing the total bodice length by ¼.

Making Bra Cup

Next cut your pattern along the horizontal lines you drew in Step 3.

. In order to grade a sleeve youd need to first grade the bodice. This will need to increase to ½ if you are grading more than 4 total. Tape the top of the strips to a new piece of paper so that there is the necessary distance between them ie.

Place your 6 pattern pieces on the muslin like a puzzle. Tape down Piece C in the same way 18 across from Piece B. Reduce clutter on graded pattern pieces.

If you are a Medium in the chest but a large in the waist mark the Medium armhole pattern line and the large pattern waistline. Then each of these sections grows or shrinks according to the brands size chart. Then look at the slash marks and add up how much total length you added or subtracted from the front and back armscyes.

You simply need paper that is larger than the current pattern piece so you can draw new cutting lines around it. With the measurements in my example if I were to grade a pattern for a shirt it might look. Instead I would opt to grade between the three sizes.

The paper you choose may depend on the size of pattern. In this scenario I wouldnt feel comfortable just cutting out one size. When creating grade rules the form is broken up into sections using specific landmarks pictured here.

Ungroup the duplicated layer and the original layer CTRLSHIFTG. The measurement you found in Step 4. Grading between different sizes on a pattern is a really simple adjustment that you can make that can really make a difference in the fit of your garment.

Piece D will need to be taped down flush with. Watch on whilst Becca gives you the low down. Pattern grading in general does not require any fancy tools.

Next using a fabric marker or chalk measure 18 out from either side of the bottom piece. Secure your bottom piece of the pattern about ½ from the bottom of the muslin. Use a different color marker to mark reference points on the corners between the sizes you need to grade.

When we get to the next row we need to consider the increase at the horizontal lines. Grading up a multi-sized Fashion Pattern increasing the size of a commercial sewing pattern from a pattern that already has size line. Grading can be a complicated topic but when you break it down the formulas become much more manageable.

Use the text tool to make any notes that you want. The next step is optional but really helps clean up a pattern for projecting. As you can see this would put me in XS for the bust M for the waist and S for the hip.

When you slash your sleeves you need to make sure that the total amount you add to the sleeve cap equals the amount. Ashley demonstrates using basic copy paper however you can use tissue paper or other pattern paper as well. Redraw the pattern using Pattern Maker Rulers.

Sleeves and armscyes go hand in hand. Place the two pieces that go on either side of the bottom piece and pin in place. Then select and delete all the layers except for the graded layer.

How to pattern grade.